Nepal's Ghode Jatra: Kaji Saheb Rides Through Lalitpur in Ancient Horse Festival

The ancient Ghode Jatra horse festival was celebrated in Lalitpur, Nepal, featuring the Kaji Saheb touring the city smeared in vermillion and covered in garlands. The tradition dates back to the Malla regime and is preserved by the Walkhu Chibaha Guthi, with members taking turns riding the horse annually. The festival is believed to have started to check on the living conditions of subjects and to commemorate the victory over a demon trampled by horses. It concludes with the Kaji Saheb chewing betel after a procession believed to bring good governance and ward off evil spirits.

Key Points: Nepal's Ghode Jatra Festival Preserved by Walkhu Chibaha Guthi

  • Ancient Malla-era tradition
  • Kaji Saheb procession for public welfare
  • Victory over demon Gurumapa
  • Preserved by Walkhu Chibaha Guthi
  • Nepal Army parade in Kathmandu
4 min read

Kaji Saheb tours ancient Lalitpur in vermillion and garlands as Nepal marks annual "Ghode Jatra"

Ancient Ghode Jatra horse festival celebrated in Lalitpur, Nepal, with Kaji Saheb procession for good governance and warding off evil spirits.

"Taking out his procession is believed to bring good governance, win the trust of people, veer off the bad spirits and evils - Chandra Maharjan"

Lalitpur, March 18

Smeared in vermillion powder and covered in garlands, the "Kaji Saheb," the highest post awarded in the royal palace, toured around Nepal's ancient city of Lalitpur, marking the annual festival of Ghode Jatra.

The Ghode Jatra, translated as the festival of horses, features "Kaji Saheb" touring the ancient city between the temples with bystanders clapping and cheering. This is a tradition which has been preserved for ages in Lalitpur, observed specifically on Ghode Jatra or the festival of horses.

Speaking to ANI, Chandra Maharjan, member of the Walkhu Chibaha: Guthi, who has been organising the annual Ghode Jatra, said, "It is a festival that has been in observance since the Malla regime. During that time, there used to be a stable here (inside the Patan Durbar Square premises) that belonged to the Malla royal families. In that stable used to work the Maharjan's as the caretaker and keepers of the horses. One day, the Malla king, while strolling around, saw a caretaker resting in the shed around the stable who had 'Shesh Naag' on his head and given protection. Then he came to the understanding that this is not a common human being and symbolises the divine kingship, and he gave his royal horse to that caretaker to tour around."

Kaji Saheb, who is also called "Ju-Ju" in the local Newa language, implying the monarchy, a procession is taken out annually to know about the situation of the public. This tradition of the King riding on a horse and taking to the street is believed to have started during Sri Nivas Malla (1620-1661) of Patan.

Beforehand, Kathmandu had the tradition of holding the annual horse festival, which is believed to have started by Pratap Malla (1624-1674). Pratap Malla, at that time, started the festival to check on the status and living conditions of his subjects.

King Sri Nivas Malla of Patan adopted the tradition in Patan as well to stop the locals of Patan from going to Kathmandu to see the horse procession. This festival, which has been in practice since the Malla regime (13th to 18th Century), has been preserved and continued till the 21st century by Walkhu Chibaha: Guthi run by Maharjan.

Members of the Guthi turn-by-turn ride on the horse and tour the city annually on Ghode Jatra, keeping this ancient tradition alive and in existence. Covering a distance of about one kilometre, the horse bearer or the Kaji Saheb is congratulated and regarded by members of the society.

The festivity, which barely lasts for an hour with horse ferrying from one temple to another, the Kaji Saheb chews the betel, formally concluding the procession for the year.

"Taking out his procession is believed to bring good governance, win the trust of people, veer off the bad spirits and evils, bring prosperity and relief to people, always keep them healthy is the belief that exists and it is first said to be introduced by King Sri Nivas," Chandra Maharjan added.

Back in Kathmandu, the Nepal Army holds a horse parade in the Tundikhel ground or the Nepal Army Pavilion in the presence of high-end dignitaries.

Nepal has a special status and place for worshipping animals and birds. This festival of worshipping the horses called "Ghodejatra" is observed on the new moon of Chaitra Sukla Paksha of the eastern lunar calendar. In terms of the Gregorian calendar, it usually falls in mid-March or early April.

It is observed annually following the belief that its observation started as a celebration of the victory over a demon named Gurumapa (also called Tundi) in ancient times. He used to terrorise people in the Kathmandu valley, cause misery, kidnap children and devour them.

The demon was finally trampled to death by horses and buried under a tree in the Tundikhel ground at the centre of Kathmandu. In order to stop his spirits from coming back into the ground, the king started the ritual of galloping over the field. This tradition was then performed every year on Chaitra Krishna Aunsi and is known as Ghode Jatra.

- ANI

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Reader Comments

R
Rohit P
Wow, the story about trampling the demon Gurumapa is intense! It's amazing how a festival can have such a vivid mythological origin. The photos must be spectacular with all the vermillion and garlands. Makes me want to plan a trip to Nepal around March-April to witness this. Our shared Himalayan culture is truly rich.
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Aman W
Respectfully, while the tradition is beautiful, the article mentions the Kaji Saheb symbolising monarchy. In the 21st century, with Nepal being a republic now, does this festival need to evolve its symbolism? Perhaps it can celebrate the people and community (the Guthi) more than the idea of a king checking on his subjects. Just a thought.
S
Sarah B
The level of detail in preserving history is commendable. Knowing the exact king who started it in Patan to stop people from going to Kathmandu is such a specific and human detail. It shows how festivals are often about local pride and identity. The Guthi system keeping it alive is community heritage management at its best.
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Vikram M
"Bring good governance and win the trust of the people" – that's a powerful belief to attach to a festival. In today's world, maybe all our leaders need a symbolic horse ride to remind them of their duty! 😄 On a serious note, it's a lovely tradition. The betel-chewing to formally conclude it is such a specific ritual.
K
Kavya N
The intertwining of the Nepal Army parade in Kathmandu with this local Lalitpur tradition is interesting. One is a state function, the other

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