Nepal's "Everest Man" calls for capping permits as overcrowding mars world's tallest peak
Kathmandu, May 22
Nepal's record-holding climber, Kami Rita Sherpa, dubbed the "Everest Man", has called for a cap on permits for the world's highest peak as he received a heroic welcome back to Kathmandu.
Kami Rita Sherpa, in mid-May, climbed the 8,848.86-metre-high peak, Everest, for the record 32nd time, breaking his own record for the most ascents of the world's tallest peak.
"This expedition was a bit crowded, the number of climbers was high in comparison to last year, the government needs to control it," Kami Rita Sherpa told the media as he was welcomed by his family and relatives.
"It's not about limiting the number of climbers on a day basis, the government should focus more on the quality of the climbers -- the more qualified climbers should be allowed to go. The numbers should be limited; there should be a cap," the climber elaborated further.
Born on January 17, 1970, in Thame, Solukhumbu District, Kami Rita is currently engaged as a mountain guide on Mt Everest. He first summited Mt Everest in 1994.
The 56-year-old Sherpa climber has been scaling mountains for over two decades.
Kami Rita's mountaineering journey began in 1992 when he joined an expedition to Everest as a support staff member.
Since then, Kami Rita has fearlessly embarked on numerous expeditions, summiting Everest multiple times.
His achievements extend beyond Everest, as he has also conquered other formidable peaks, including K2, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and Manaslu.
Asked whether he will go for a record ascent in the coming year, the record-holding climber said he is yet to decide.
"Whether I will climb again next year will be decided next year only. I am not driven by the desire to run for the record. It is for Nepal, to make it more recognisable and drive more tourists here and promote tourism here. Because of this only, I am climbing Everest continuously," Kami Rita Sherpa said.
Traffic along Mount Everest has increased this year, with 2026 recorded as the year with record-high permit and royalty collection.
Nearly 500 permits were issued this year for Everest alone.
A record number of climbers came to Nepal despite increased revenue charges as well as the ongoing crisis in East Asia, which has pushed up flight fares.
Nepal, since last September, has hiked the royalty for peaks above 8,000 metres.
The Sixth Amendment of the mountaineering regulation, released on February 3, 2025, also bars climbers from solo expeditions on all peaks above 8,000 metres.
Rule 6 of the previous regulation has been amended to bar climbers from going on solo expeditions on peaks above 8,000 metres.
The recently adopted changes have also formally publicised the hike in royalty fees for foreign climbers attempting to summit Mount Everest from the standard south route in spring to USD 15,000 per person.
The spring season expedition, which sees a high influx of climbers in the Himalayan nation from March to May, was previously USD 11,000.
The new regulation has also increased the climbing royalty for the autumn season, running from September to November, to USD 7,500 from the existing 5,500.
Similarly, the winter expedition, which runs from December to February, and the monsoon season from June to August, have also been revised to USD 3,750 from 2,750.
The updated provision has also incorporated revised fees for other peaks above 8,000 metres.
The royalty for spring expeditions has increased by nearly twofold from USD 1,800 to 3,000.
The autumn fee now stands at USD 1,500 from the existing 900, while the winter and monsoon expeditions have become costlier, having been revised from 450 to 750.
In regard to Nepali climbers, the royalty for the normal route in the spring season has doubled from NRs 75,000 to NRs 150,000.
Nepal, in 2015, revised the royalty fee by switching from a group-based system to a uniform fee of USD 11,000 per climber for Everest's spring season via the normal route.
The cost of expeditions rises further when the weather is not favourable, as the climbing window normally lasts for only two weeks in a year.
Close to 7,000 mountaineers have climbed Everest from the Nepal side since Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and New Zealander Edmund Percival Hillary first set foot atop the world's highest peak in May 1953.
— ANI
Reader Comments
It's ironic that Kami Rita broke his own record while calling for a cap on permits. The guy is a machine, but the system is broken. Climate change is making windows shorter, so everyone rushes up at once. Quality checks and a daily limit make perfect sense.
Honestly, I feel bad for the Sherpas. They risk their lives carrying gear and fixing ropes for tourists who have more money than sense. The fee hike is good, but it won't stop the rich from buying permits. Let's hope the quality check rule gets enforced strictly.
This is a classic case of overtourism. Nepal's economy depends on Everest, but unchecked permits are turning it into a circus. I'm glad Kami Rita is speaking up - he's not just a record holder but a guardian of the mountain. Jai Nepal! 🇳🇵
As an avid hiker, I get the appeal, but the numbers are staggering - 500 permits for one season! This isn't a trek, it's a queue. The solo expedition ban is sensible, but I'd add mandatory experience proof. No more "bucket list" climbers dragging everyone down.
Respect to Kami Rita for putting Nepal and tourism above personal records. 🙏 The fee hike from $11,000 to $15,000 is steep, but if it funds better rescue services and Sherpa welfare, I'm all for it. Our Himalayas need protection, not exploitation.
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