Wanted to make collection heavy, sexual: Sabyasachi on 'Opium'

By Ritika Arora, New Delhi, August 1 : Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee lived up to expectations with his couture collection Opium, a name inspired by his mother's perfume, which had beautiful pieces of artwork adorned with oldest Indian embroidery like ari tari and tara - and wowed everyone on the opening day of the Delhi Couture Week 2013.

Through Opium, Sabyasachi Wednesday night presented a glamorous and sensual collection that took viewers back to the 1920s.

"I wanted to do something that has a very strong sense of opium and has 1920s feel to it," Sabyasachi told IANS.

"I called the collection Opium because it's very heavy and it is the perfume by Yves Saint Laurent that my mother always used. So, there were memories attached to it. I wanted to make the collection heavy, sexual and glamorous," he added.

From hand embroidered churidaars with dupattas created using tulle fabric, elegant saris beautifully embellished with tilla work and zardozi, printed ghararas teamed with flapper waistcoat to heavily embellished lehenga paired with khadi blouse - the collection was lavish and perfect for those looking for elegance and glamour to accentuate their feminine look.

Sabyasachi also said that he took inspiration from director Fernando Meirelles's film "The Constant Gardener".

Talking about the fabrics, the designer told IANS: "I have used lot of khadi from West Bengal, veil tulle fabric from France. I have also used tilla work, zardozi, velvet, nets, designer laces and mirror work."

"The whole collection is very feminine and glamorous and it also belongs to the era, which is my favourite too - 1920s. It took me two-and-a-half-month to complete the collection and I didn't have to do much research work as I think I'm 1920's child.

"Also, I have interpreted some scenes from the movie 'The Constant Gardener'," said Sabyasachi, who has styled Bollywood celebrities like Vidya Balan, Sridevi and Kareena Kapoor.

His collection for men too had a royal touch. The collection comprised of hand-dyed canvas sherwani with churidaar and Kashmiri shawl.

If that's not enough, Nehru jackets embellished with zardozi ari tilla work and mirror work with tulle base and khadi churidaar looked perfect for those who like to experiment with their wardrobe.

Flapper jackets and waistcoats, trousers also highlighted 1920s fashion. Also, textured silk sherwani with Kashmiri detail work, cotton printed safa and churidaar looked perfect for the forthcoming wedding season.

"I have also used bandhgalas, short tops, flapper jackets, coats in subtle shades like ivory, gold and off white. I have used sequin work, tara work, which is mainly hand, cut gold, silver and copper work.

"I have also used India's oldest embroidery ari tari as I wanted to revive it. There's lot of bling too as the creations are heavy and luxurious," informed Sabyasachi.

Jewellery is important for such collection and the designer said: "I have used lot of vintage and antique jewellery. They are mainly collectibles from 1800 to 1900. It is like personal collection put together."

Organised by the Fashion Design Council of India, the Delhi Couture Week (2013) is being held at Taj Palace hotel.

--IANS (Posted on 01-08-2013)

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