Mumbai, Mar 14 IBNS | 8 months ago

Dedicated to the modern bride, Gaurang Shah's "Chandbali" collection was a splendid line of regal ethnic wear at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 on Friday.

To the strains of lilting music by Ashok Gurjale, the show which was a rainbow of colours and styles created a feast for the eyes.

Combining the patterns of the antique odhnas from the Akbarnama with khadi, Gaurang ensured that the outfits had all the richness, beauty and auspicious touches of bridal finery. Motifs like gow-mata, chand-suraj, Buddha-pada were combined with Chandbali like embroidery.

The colours caused a riot on the ramp as garments in surkh red, gulabi pink, zard yellow, narangi orange, sabz green were designed into majestic styles.

Reviving the jama, achkans, angarkha, sadri, shaluka, floor length kalidaar and lehenga with assi kalis, Gaurang ensured that the 21st century bride had ample options.

Bringing to centre stage the ancient Jamdani weaving technique, Gaurang's "Chandbali" collection was poetry in fabric form as he presented the odhna weaves on organza while the embroidery on khadi recreated the antique zardosi style.

To end the show, Gaurang had his favourite muse Kirron Kher in a shocking pink brocade sari that glided down the ramp to thunderous applause.

Meanwhile, fascinated by nature and all things natural, Purvi Doshi's collection called "Renaissance" created from the humble basic pure cotton fabric was a memorable presentation at Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014.

Red, grey, khaki, deep green, ecru and indigo were combined with cultures and styles of Europe and Gujarat from 1400-1600 centuries and were the inspirations of the garments.

Playing with silhouettes, Purvi teamed up long gowns, blends of different sleeve designs, plunging low-back interest but added gathers and pleats to present unconventional garments. Choosing natural dyes from plants, animals and shells, Purvi's collection also sent out a strong message to preserve the environment with sustainable fashion through embroidery featuring flora and fauna.

The show opened with two majestic full circle floor length gowns with a marked Lambadi touch. Soon flared minis, long sleeved collared kurtas, waisted black dress with print/embellishment and kedia inspired tops swirled down the catwalk.

Boleros with cut-out sleeves and kurtas with high slit sleeves, printed palazzos and stylish covers completed the collection. Purvi ended the show with multiple colour blocked diaphanous gowns that were luxurious in their style and design.

Inspired by the beauty of Pondicherry, Shruti Sancheti's "Le Pondi" collection for Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 had all the gentle tranquil influences of the city.

Merging the grandeur of French and European influences with Tamilian sensibilities; the collection was a fashionable mix of intricately woven Temple weaves with a trendy twist given to the pastel colour borders. Expertly woven with a 150 thread count, the base fabric was teamed with silk, natural calico cotton, lace and cotton silk.

Blossoms appeared artistically on the fabrics in the form of screen and block prints to add a European-Boho ambience to the collection. Working around romantic silhouettes that swirled down the ramp; Shruti presented midis, maxis, voluminous jumpsuits, asymmetrical dresses and jackets with marked French influence.

Indian silhouettes were added as kurtas, tunics and saris brought in the oriental flavour on the catwalk. Colours created a riot of hues as aqua, coral, canary, moss and mint in green shades and powder blue, yellow, lilac; bubble gum pink brought a refreshing feel on the catwalk.

Detailing was in the form of long/short stitches, cutwork, French knots and cross stitch. Swallow tail tops, lace yokes for the back, sleeves and as edging for hemlines, interesting apron-like layers over maxis and tiny floral cutwork bolero gave the collection the finishing touch. Saris too were treated with prints or lace to match the theme of the show.

(Posted on 14-03-2014)

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